| From Newsletter June 2011
COLOUR PROBLEMS
Have you ever seen a pair of ash-blond eyebrows turn to mauve? Or golden brown brows become orange?
Dark brown eyeliner turns red?
This is because, with the exception of the three primary colours (red yellow and blue), all other pigments are a compilation of many tones and hues and all have an inherent undertone.
The undertone of ash, as in ash brown, is violet; the undertone of brown is orange or red.
When the pigment is placed into the skin we can, over time, see a photo-sensitive reaction, as with sunburn. We get a breakdown of the stability of colour, especially in yellow, which will gradually disappear.
If your client shows these undertones they may need to have their colour retouched with new colour. But first you need to learn how to repair the original colour first. If we just keep covering our problems they will never be perfect. Study colour theory and the use of repair colour e.g. a khaki green is the colour required to repair a pink or salmon colour brow as pink + green = brown.
To repair a blue/grey brow we need an orange blue +orange-brown.
From Newsletter January 2010
If I were to say that every client was very happy with their cosmetic procedure this would not be true. Why?
More often than not it is the fault of the therapist:
- Not listening to the client
- Not completed enough training
- Having not enough knowledge of colours and their true base colour
- Using outdated machines
- Using old style anaesthetics
- Overworking the skin
- Not placing the pigment in the correct layer of the skin resulting in either the colour flaking off (due to placing the pigment in the epidermis) or not showing enough colour (by placing too deep into the dermis) resulting in bleeding and loss of pigment.
- Not giving after care advice
But lets not blame the therapist all the time, we all know the client who books in and is unsure what her own expectations are?
From Newsletter September 2011
Client History Forms
Add this to your form:
Is client using lash growth enhancement serum?
If yes, client must be off the product for at least 8-12 weeks as the serum builds up within the fine skin of the eyelid and will stop a good application of pigment being acheived.
From Newsletter October 2010
Member Paula Reali had a client come to her for advice on her brows.
Paula says “they are too heavy, too large for her face, and had turned blue. Rita would only wear large sunglasses to hide the brows. These were done 10 years ago. Rita had gone to another therapist who simple covered them again with Black to hide the Blue.
One lesson we all now know is you must fix the colour problem first before covering with more colour. So Rita now had two coverages of Black turned blue.
Paula began as follows:
- after numbing she drew in the new shape then used corrector colour (blue brow corrector which is a melon colour), this can turn the blue shade back to brown.
- Camouflage colour of Beige and Skin was used to cover the thick areas of the brow (see photo).
Already it was looking better. We still have more treatments to get our final result.
From Newsletter October 2010
Recoloured Nose
I have been working on this man's nose which was removed due to cancer. Peter had a new nose made from his rib and skin taken from his inner forearm. The skin is a different colour. I have worked to normalise the tone and then, in the next session, applied small red veins to match his skin tone. He is extremely happy with the results. Colours used were Magic and Blush.
Procedure by Donna Moody-Martin
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